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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. But, situated high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.